Through fashion, designer Nacy Francis expresses her distinct language

Interview by Inya Tennyson

Skilled, remarkable and single-handedly. That’s how Nacy Francis’ garments are made.

From creating concepts to drawing patterns and sewing attire, every single piece is uniquely constructed by the designer herself. Nacy Francis’ creations are as gutsy as it gets. We spoke to the creative mind behind these pieces to comprehend fashion through her eyes.

How would you define your idea of fashion, Nacy?

Fashion to me is being bold enough to have your own style while exploring different styles at the same time. Creating your own trend, and allowing others to be themselves as well. Knowing not everyone is going to understand your sense of fashion. It’s like a different language for everybody. I get inspired in solitude, but also by music, and many other things around me. Being a 90’s kid, I get a lot of inspiration from that era too.

What inspired you to become a designer? Tell us the story of how it all

began.

My parents were big on wearing conspicuous attire and designer clothes to parties and dinners. As a little girl, I looked up to how they dressed. But when times got financially rough for my parents, I’d get bullied in school for wearing torn up clothes or sporting the same items more often. I remember praying and hoping to one day have clothes in abundance so that the bullying would stop. From that point, fashion was instilled in me. But it wasn’t until my early 20’s that I wanted to actually study it. 

Initially, I wanted to start a community for emerging designers with a high school friend. We needed a degree to do that, so I decided to study fashion. I didn’t think becoming a designer would be the outcome, but I nurtured a real passion for it during my education.

The clothes you design have a very recognisable aesthetic. If they could speak for themselves, what would you want your garbs to say?

I put a lot of emotion into making clothes. A lot of soul. I want every piece to exclude confusion and rather respire power and confidence.

I want my apparel to express: “If you don’t understand my look that’s fine, but you will respect me.” 

As you create every single item by hand yourself, what does your creative process look like? 

Every piece I make is exclusively crafted from scratch by myself. From picking the suitable fabric to drawing a pattern, cutting, and sewing… The designing part begins when every element is cut and sewn together. I then shape it to the right form and add details until it looks perfect to me. I always say: If it’s not something I’d wear myself, I won’t create it. 

In your experience, what’s it like being a black African female designer in the European fashion industry?

I’ve been to different countries and the worst experience I’ve had while expressing myself through my designs was in Belgium, where I was raised. Before I put on one of my creations I have to be ready to be ridiculed or pointed at. It’s exhausting.

One day I wore a long blue coat, loose trousers, a turtleneck and a large fur hat... I got odd stares and laughs on the street. A kid called me ‘zwarte piet’ while chucklingly pointing at my hat. Their parents laughed too. Even though Antwerp is known for being a fashion city, people there can be very close-minded when it comes to fashion.

You mention being a black female designer… Let’s start with the black community in Belgium first. I don’t feel like there’s a strong one. Black people in Antwerp don’t really support others or care to unite unless they gain something in return. Now ask yourself... If the black community in your home town isn’t solid, how can a black female artist raised there truly stand strong? Luckily this inspired me to travel more and connect with people outside of Antwerp. More importantly, it taught me to connect more with myself. It took me having to work with internationals before people with a voice in Antwerp wanted to support me. And that's ok. Corny, but ok.

I admire you for not diminishing your expressiveness. On the plus side... What’s your favourite part about being a designer?

It starts with how you define a designer. I think people use the word fashion designer loosely. There are so many parts to fashion. A fashion designer to me isn’t just someone who draws clothes but someone that can execute them as well. Somebody who knows the entire process.

What I adore most about being a designer is experiencing how people feel while wearing a creation of mine.

That sounds like an achievement already. When do you think you’d feel accomplished in the industry?

As an artist that’d be not having to explain who you are in the country you started. Success to me personally is having inner peace when you are at your lowest. And also being able to support others as well as gain support from others. Supporting is an ability.

If you could travel back in time, what advice would you give to your 20-year-old self?

I’d tell younger Nacy: “It’s ok to say ‘no’. Explore, and get to know yourself. Continue to look for your God-given talent and allow yourself to make mistakes.”

Do you have any more tips for aspiring fashion designers?

Don’t copy other brands. Look within. Be ready to put in the work, and know it can take years. If you’re not going to do it, someone else will. Don’t lose yourself in the process. Not everything is taught in school. After graduating I still had a lot of self-learning and experimenting to do. I’d isolate myself and sew every single day. Research and be your own teacher while surrounding yourself with people in the fashion industry.

Finally, what are some of your biggest dreams that you hope yet to fulfill?

I live life by being true to myself and others. Tapping into myself will eventually lead me to God and what God wants for me. Being a designer to me is spiritual because I create from within. Designing is not just a business to me. A big dream is to help others boost their confidence through my apparel. In the future, I’d like to work with more creatives, musicians, photographers, poets, DJs and actors all over the world.

We’re rooting for you, Nacy. Thank you for being so transparent with us and sharing your thoughts and experiences. You can get your hands on a Nacy Francis creation on nacyfrancis.com.